Basic tips on how to care for your vegetables, flowers, trees, and other plants. Planting dates are suggested guidelines. These dates will provide the highest probability of success, but weather conditions can vary; planting dates may need to be adjusted accordingly.

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• December and January are the coldest months of the year here, so be prepared to cover frost sensitive plants on evenings when we have frost warnings. (Old sheets work well.) The traditional last date for frost is March 15.
  
  
• This is a good month for yard and garden clean-up. Pick up debris such as spent blossoms and fruit from around plants, rake fallen leaves, and remove weeds to discourage pests and diseases, as well as for a tidier appearance.
  
  
• Prune established deciduous trees and shrubs by removing diseased and dead branches, or branches that detract from the desired shaped of the plant.
  
  
• Prune rose plants by one half to two thirds; water roses twice a week, but do not feed roses until February.
  
  
• Last chance to plant bare roots trees and shrubs.
  
  
• Plant alyssum, calendula, cyclamen, dianthus, pansies, poppies, and snapdragons for cool weather color.
  
  
• Plant cool weather vegetables such as cabbage, carrots, lettuce, potatoes, radishes, spinach, and swiss chard.
  
  
• Prepare vegetable and flower beds for spring planting by amending soil with organic compost and sulphur.
  
  
• Start tomatoes from seed indoors.
  
  
• Continue slow, deep, and less frequent watering of established trees and shrubs.

• Prune deciduous trees and shrubs (if not done in January) before new growth begins, while plants are still dormant.
  
  
• Most established trees and shrubs should be irrigated about every two weeks, watering slowly and deeply.
  
  
• Feed established citrus with Citrus Food.
  
  
• Feed established roses with Flower and Vegetable or Rose Food, and add Epsom salts; deep water three times a week.
  
  
• Now is a good time to buy ready-to-plant roses.
  
  
• Cut back and divide Chrysanthemums.
  
  
• Plant cool weather annuals such as geraniums, gerbera daisies, pansies, petunias, snapdragons, and violas.
  
  
• There is still time to plant cool weather vegetables from seed, such as carrots, peas, radishes, and spinach.
  
  
• Plant bulbs such as cannas, dahlias, and gladiolus for late spring and early summer bloom in an area that will receive afternoon shade.
  
  
• Start spring vegetables, such as cucumbers, peppers, and summer squash, indoors from seed.
  
  
• Tomato starts are available for planting this month, but be sure to cover new plants if there is a danger of frost.
  
  
• Cover frost sensitive plants on evenings when we have frost warnings. (Old sheets work well.) The traditional last date for frost is March 15, although in the lower deserts you may be able to safely start your spring plants outdoors as early as mid-February.
  
  
• Purchase Geraniums toward end of month for planting in containers; keep them in full sun until it gets hot, then move to a shaded area for the summer months.
  
  
• Hoe weeds brought on by winter rains. (Weeds grow fast and go to seed quickly, so get them as soon as they come up while they’re easier to control.)

• March 15 is the average best planting date for our area; and it’s best to get started right away to give the plants as much time as possible to grow before the punishing summer heat comes in May.
  
  
• Continue to water established trees and shrubs slowly and deeply, increasing frequency of irrigation as temperatures warm up.
  
  
• Prune evergreen trees and shrubs, and water deeply after pruning.
  
  
• Bougainvillea and lantana can be pruned back as far as you want.
  
  
• Plant groundcovers to retain soil moisture and mitigate heat. (One of the best for shady areas is Vinca Major, while Purple Trailing Lantana and New Gold Lantana are great for hot, sunny areas.)
  
  
• Feed established roses with Flower and Vegetable or Rose Food, and add Epsom salts; deep water three times a week.
  
  
• Plant spring and early blooming summer annuals such as alyssum, geraniums, gerbera daisies, marigolds, and petunias. Begonias, dahlias, and impatiens are nice for shady areas.
  
  
• Plant eggplant, pepper, and tomato starts.
  
  
• Plant bean, corn, cucumber, melon, squash, and watermelon seeds.
  
  
• Plant basil, chive, cilantro, oregano, parsley, sage, and thyme.
  
  
• Plant citrus after the danger of frost is over.
  
  
• Prune frost damage from frost tender plants once new growth appears.
  
  
• Watch for spider mites (signs include a dusty or webby covering on trees and shrubs) and spray affected plants from top to bottom with a hard blast of water.
  
  
• It can get really windy this month. Protect your tender young plants and keep them well watered so they don’t get blown over or dried out in the high winds.

• April is National Garden Month, Arbor Day, and Earth Day!
  
  
• Feed established roses with Flower and Vegetable or Rose Food, and add Epsom salts; water three times a week.
  
  
• Remove dead roses after each bloom period.
  
  
• Expect evergreen trees and shrubs to drop older yellow foliage in preparation for new spring growth.
  
  
• Iron chlorosis (yellow foliage with bright green veins) may be detected on plants such as citrus, roses, and gardenias; treat affected plants with chelated iron.
  
  
• Plant spring and summer annuals such as alyssum, geraniums, gerbera daisies, marigolds, and petunias. Begonias, dahlias, and impatiens are nice for shady areas.
  
  
• Plant spring blooming perennials such as African Daisies, Butterfly Bush, delphinium, gallardia, and lavender.
  
  
• Plant tomato starts as soon as possible since the summer harvesting season is short, and plant a variety that is best suited for our hot climate, such as Sweet 100’s.
  
  
• This is the best month to plant citrus and other frost sensitive tropical plants such as bougainvillea, hibiscus, and lantana.
  
  
• Prune frost damaged branches from plants once new growth appears.
  
  
• Established trees and shrubs may need weekly irrigation by the end of the month; be sure to water thoroughly and deeply.
  
  
• Container plants will need daily watering as temperatures warm up.
  
  
• Wash off aphids and spider mites with a heavy blast of water or if they persist, use a pyrethrin-based product.
  
  
• Remove and discard prickly pear pads that show signs of dry rot (decayed, blackened areas caused by a fungal disease).
  
  
• Established succulents are generally watered every 2-3 weeks, but when temperatures reach 105 degrees, water every other week; water deeply and in a wide circle around the base of the plant.
  
  
• Water newly planted succulents every 7-10 days. Once new growth appears or plants have been in the ground for one month, expand watering to every 10-14 days for the first summer. (Don’t put cacti and succulents on an automatic watering system, or at least not on the same line as other plants since their watering requirements are so different.)
  
  
• If you need to do any more pruning, finish it now before the summer heat arrives. Don’t trim plants in summer because they will get sunburned. Also, don’t prune citrus because the lower branches shade the trunk, keeping the tree cooler and protecting it from sunburn.
  

• Feed established roses with Flower and Vegetable or Rose Food, and add Epsom salts; increase deep watering to every other day and mulch your rose bed to help retain moisture.
  
  
• Remember to remove dead roses after each bloom period.
  
  
• Leaf-cutter bees may cut semi-circles cut out of new growth on roses and bougainvilleas but don’t worry, no permanent damage will be done.
  
  
• Don’t let Bermuda grass invade your garden or flower bed; pull it out now or it will be hard to get rid of.
  
  
• Feed established citrus with Citrus Food and don’t be alarmed, citrus fruit drop is normal this month.
  
  
• Plant trees, shrubs, and vines by the end of the month in order to benefit from a full summer season of growth.
  
  
• Keep an eye on your potted plants; unless they are tough heat resistant ones like cactus, they might need to be watered twice a day. Move pots out of direct sunlight to avoid baking the plants’ roots.
  
  
• Plant summer vegetables such as cantaloupe, eggplant, peppers, pumpkin, squash, tomatoes, and watermelon.
  
  
• Plant summer annuals such as cosmos, golden fleece, marigolds, periwinkle, petunias, portulaca, sweet potato vines, and verbena. Begonias, dahlias, and impatiens are nice for shady areas.
  
  
• Plant native and desert adapted perennials such as angelita daisy, autumn sage, butterfly bush, chocolate flower, and shrubby bulbine.
  
  
• Keep checking for spider mites (signs include a dusty or webby covering on trees and shrubs) and spray affected plants from top to bottom with a hard blast of water.
  
  
• Water garden plants daily when temperatures exceed 90 degrees, and increase the frequency of irrigation on established trees and shrubs to about once a week; water slowly and deeply to prevent runoff.
  
  
• Water large cacti, ocotillos, and yucca plants at least once a month from now through September.
  
  
• Agaves, prickly pears, smaller cacti and yuccas can be watered every three weeks.
  
  
• This is a good time to plant or transplant cacti, agaves, succulents, and other heat-loving plants.
  
  
• To prevent sunburn of newly planted succulents, keep them shaded during the first summer. (Use shade cloth if they are not sheltered by trees or buildings.)
  
  
• Warm weather conditions are ideal for pruning cacti; to ensure a clean cut, always use a sharp blade and cut at a joint whenever possible. Dust cuts with sulphur to prevent infection.
  
  
• If your aloe plants have become overgrown, divide them now by cutting out plants along the edge until you have reduced the size of the clump to about half.

• June is the hottest month, and an especially difficult month for young plants; you will need to concentrate on helping your plants survive. Even the more heat tolerant plants can get stressed and will benefit from a little shade at this time of the year to look their best.
  
  
• Check all of your plants on a regular basis to make sure they’re getting enough water. Adequate irrigation is extremely important during the hot summer months. Water most established trees and shrubs weekly, slowly and deeply.
  
  
• Protect all of your plants by adding a layer of mulch to help retain moisture and cool the ground.
  
  
• Established native cactus such as prickly pear and ocotillo should be watered at least once a month; saguaro cactus should not need any supplemental water unless recently planted. Water established non-native cacti once a week. Container cacti may need watering up to twice a week.
  
  
• Feed established roses with Flower and Vegetable or Rose Food at half strength, also adding Epsom salts at half strength, while increasing deep watering to every day. (Roses need ample irrigation.)
  
  
• Apply chelated iron to roses if they show signs of an iron deficiency (yellow leaves with bright green veins).
  
  
• Keep checking for spider mites (signs include a dusty or webby covering on trees and shrubs) and spray affected plants from top to bottom with a hard blast of water.
  
  
• Plant summer annuals such as cosmos, golden fleece, periwinkle, portulaca, salvia, and sweet potato vine. Begonias, dahlias, and impatiens are nice for shady areas.
  
  
• Plant summer annuals (cosmos, sunflowers, tithonia, and zinnias) from seed.
  
  
• Plant summer herbs such as basil, mint, oregano, rosemary, sage, and thyme.
  
  
• Plant summer vegetables such as Armenian cucumber, eggplant, pumpkin, squash, and watermelon from transplants or seeds.
  
  
• Deadhead flowering plants to encourage continued blooming, by removing spent flowers before they go to seed.
  
  
• Start collecting spring bulbs after their leaves die naturally. (The exception is daffodil bulbs which are toxic and best left in the ground.)

• Most established trees and shrubs will need a weekly slow deep soaking of the entire root area.
  
  
• The monsoon season traditionally starts around the 4th of July, with humidity arriving from the Gulf of California.
  
  
• Summer rains will bring another crop of weeds; get them while they are still small.
  
  
• Look for signs of Texas root rot, a fatal plant disease indigenous to our desert southwest soils. Symptoms include a sudden, rapid wilting and drying of foliage following storms or heavy irrigation. The soil-borne fungus (Phymatotrichopsis omnivora) that causes the disease does not produce airborne spores; it exists and spreads in the soil. (Grasses, palms, agaves, yuccas, and bromeliads are immune to the disease. Highly resistant trees and shrubs include acacia, cacti, cape myrtle, citrus, desert willow, rosemary, and star jasmine.)
  
  
• Plants love rainwater, and the monsoon season is a good time to harvest some for later use. The easiest way to do this is to catch the runoff from your gutters and direct the water into a large barrel with a spigot or valve. (Make sure the barrels are covered to keep out mosquitoes and debris.)
  
  
• July is a good time for planting and fertilizing palm trees. Since palm-specific fertilizers need to be watered in, apply the fertilizer to soil already saturated from a storm, and let the next storm water it into the ground or use a hose if another storm does not come in a timely manner.
  
  
• Feed established roses with Flower and Vegetable or Rose Food at half strength, also adding Epsom salts at half strength, while watering deeply every day.
  
  
• Keep faded blooms pruned and deadhead annuals to encourage continuous blooms.
  
  
• Plant summer annuals such as daisies, lisianthus, periwinkle, and pentas. For shady spots, plant begonias, impatiens, or coleus.
  
  
• There is still time to plant bush beans, cantaloupe, corn, cucumbers, eggplant, melons, peas, pumpkin, squash, and watermelon for a late harvest. Be sure to shade your young plants.
  
  
• Plant peppers and tomatoes now for a fall crop.
  
  
• Most herbs can be planted now, but avoid planting cilantro and parsley which will bolt in the heat.
  
  
• Watch for cochineal scale on prickly pear cacti (it resembles fluffy white blobs but the insects yield a scarlet dye when crushed); spray the affected cacti with hard blasts of water.
  
  
• Beware of Palo Verde Beetles that emerge from the ground and make holes around palo verde trees, and swarms of flying termites that come out of holes in the ground to start new colonies.

• Water established trees and shrubs slowly and deeply about once a week, allowing water to penetrate to the entire root system.
  
  
• Feed established roses with Flower and Vegetable or Rose Food at half strength, also adding Epsom salts at half strength, while continuing to water deeply every day.
  
  
• Prune faded blooms and dead branches.
  
  
• Feed established citrus (planted two years ago) with Citrus Food.
  
  
• Hold on trimming plants for another month to prevent sunburn.
  
  
• Continue to plant summer annuals (cosmos, lisianthus, periwinkle, salvia, and zinnias) for instant color and in containers.
  
  
• Prepare vegetable gardens for the fall planting season by adding mulch or compost and soil sulphur.
  
  
• If you dig down into the soil, you may find grubs which are often present in the garden at this time of year. They look like short, fat, white worms, and they eat roots. If you have a plant that is suddenly dying without any apparent explanation, grubs could be the culprit.

• The monsoons are finished and temperatures can still be hot, so water needs are still high.
  
  
• This is the last month of the year to feed your roses; feed at full strength, and add Epsom salts at full strength, while continuing to water daily.
  
  
• Water established trees, shrubs, and citrus every 7-10 days until temperatures begin to cool down. Irrigate slowly and deeply, allowing water to penetrate to the entire root system. Citrus foliage may look yellow and/or sunburned after the hot summer, but new growth should be healthy.
  
  
• Many succulents, yuccas, agaves and cacti slow down their growth during the hot summer months and resume growing with the more mild temperatures of autumn, making this an ideal time to plant them. Planting is not as hard on the plants if you wait until night temperatures fall to the 70's.
  
  
• Prepare beds for cool weather annuals (petunias, pansies, snapdragons, and geraniums) early in September, then plant them toward the end of the month.
  
  
• Plant spring flowering perennials in late September. Cover with a layer of mulch 2-3 inches thick for added protection over the winter.
  
  
• Plant cool weather vegetables such as artichokes, beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, lettuce, peas, potatoes, radishes, and spinach at the end of the month. (To extend the harvest, plant at 2-3 week intervals.)
  
  
• Plant carnation, columbine, hollyhock, and sweet pea seeds at the end of the month for early spring bloom.

• Discontinue feeding rose bushes and applying Epson salts until February. But water deeply every other day, and your roses should continue to bloom until the first heavy frost.
  
  
• Begin decreasing the frequency of irrigation on established trees and shrubs until you are down to an irrigation schedule of every 3-4 weeks.
  
  
• As the temperatures drop, so will all of your plants’ water requirements. Applying a layer of mulch will help prevent moisture from evaporating and also provide protection from the cold.
  
  
• Now that the weather is cooling down, this is the time to plant trees and shrubs not sensitive to frost. The winter months will allow for the development of a good root system to support new spring growth.
  
  
• This is a good time to divide perennials. Hardy perennials such as coreopsis, yarrow, and salvia will establish their root systems during the cool months of fall and winter, then burst forth with new growth in the spring.
  
  
• Bulbs are available for fall planting. Varieties include anemone, daffodils, hyacinths, iris, and tulips. Choose bulbs that are of good size, with no soft spots. Some bulbs need to be chilled and can be stored in the refrigerator, but do not place bulbs near any fruit.
  
  
• Plant cool weather annuals such as alyssum, dianthus, lobelia, petunias, snapdragon, stock, and violas. Deadhead them as needed to prolong bloom time. As it continues to cool down, look for geraniums and pansies. Cyclamen, impatiens, and primrose are ideal cool-weather choices for protected, shady areas.
  
  
• Plant cool weather vegetables such as artichokes, beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, lettuce, peas, potatoes, radishes, spinach, and Swiss chard.
  
  
• Plant cool season herbs such as dill and parsley. Consider growing winter herbs in containers or raised beds with plenty of organic matter and good drainage. They will thrive in the sunshine.
  
  
• Plant wildflower seeds for spring bloom. (African daisies, blue bells, California poppies, desert lupine, gaillardia, Mexican poppies, penstemon, etc.)
  
  
• Now that the weather is cooling down, this is a good time to plant citrus.
  
  
• Fragrant sweet peas are an old-fashioned favorite that evoke memories of childhood gardens. They can be strategically placed to wind upward on strings or trellises to form a scented wall of flowers.
  
  
• Nasturtiums grow well from seed and trail nicely over raised beds.

• The first frost usually occurs this month, so be prepared to cover your frost-sensitive plants.
  
  
• Potted outdoor plants should be moved indoors out of the cold, or to protected areas outside. (Keep in mind that plants in the ground can withstand freezing temperatures better than plants in pots.)
  
  
• Stop feeding roses until February.
  
  
• Water roses three times a week until Thanksgiving, then gradually cut back on watering.
  
  
• Water established trees and shrubs about every 3-4 weeks, reducing overall watering as temperatures drop.
  
  
• Avoid heavy pruning of deciduous trees and shrubs, although some selective pruning is fine.
  
  
• Plant trees and shrubs that are not sensitive to frost.
  
  
• Plant spring bulbs such as daffodils, hyacinths, and tulips.
  
  
• Plant cool weather vegetables such as artichokes, beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, lettuce, peas, potatoes, radishes, spinach, and Swiss chard.
  
  
• Plant cool weather annuals such as alyssum, Christmas cactus, geraniums, pansies, snapdragon, and violas for winter color. Cyclamen, impatiens, lobelia, and primrose are nice for shady areas, but be sure to protect from freezing.
  
  
• Indoor houseplants may need repositioning as sun exposure changes with the season.

• December and January are the coldest months of the year here, so be prepared to cover frost sensitive plants on evenings when we have frost warnings. (Old sheets work well.)
  
  
• Don’t do any pruning because the exposed tips will be damaged by frost, plus the foliage should be left in place to provide extra protection from freezing temperatures.
  
  
• Due to the short days and cool temperatures, most annuals are not actively growing and need less water.
  
  
• Established trees and shrubs will need irrigation about every three to four weeks.
  
  
• Do not feed established roses, and continue to cut back on watering until you are down to a once-a-week schedule by the end of the month.
  
  
• Plant “ready-to-plant” roses now; then after they come out of their winter dormancy, they will have plenty of time for good root development before the hot weather.
  
  
• You can continue to plant cool weather annuals for winter color including alyssum, cyclamen, geraniums, lobelias, pansies, snapdragons, and violas.
  
  
• Plant cool weather herbs such as mint, parsley, rosemary, and thyme.
  
  
• Plant cool weather vegetables such as artichokes, beets, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, lettuce, peas, potatoes, radishes, spinach, and Swiss chard.
  
  
• Near the end of the month, start tomatoes and peppers indoors, in quality soil and indirect light, to be ready for planting outside in February.
  
  
• Plant bare root trees and shrubs when they become available at the end of the month.
  
  
• Begin harvesting citrus, testing for flavor at the start of the month; fruit left on the tree will continue to ripen.